Leather scrap pieces, Veg tan. Genuine Crocodile Hide with the Head. Black croc with Turquoise eyes. Goat Hides. Condition is New. Sent with Australia Post Standard Service.
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We have a bag of beautiful fur remnants of leopard printed springbok fur from Africa. These can be used for crafts, coin purses, trims - what ever you can think of for any diy project. Material: Goat skin. Features: Hand carved, natural, drape over furniture, hang on the wall. Finish: Carved.
Blue colored croc with turquoise eyes. Size:3 tool to deal with 1. See similar items. Top quality product by leading New Zealand lambswool tannery to highest specification. Results pagination - page 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Hot This Week. Cowhide Oil tanned Crazy horse leather craft Diy material retro Pull up style. Sponsored Listings. Colors vegetable tanned cowhide leather material glossy surface tochigi style.
Drain water, fill again to rinse pelts, drain and rinse again. Now squeeze a little liquid soap into your hands and work it into the fur.
Any cosmetic soap is good for tanning rabbit hides, but a nice shampoo can leave the fur softer, with a sweet fragrance. Rinse again, to ensure all soap is washed away. Hang rabbit pelts somewhere they can drip-dry, such as on a broomstick placed over a bathtub or hanging in a garage. If you sling them over a line or pole, be sure to turn them over and rotate them so no areas remain wet. Discard the brine. Though the brine is not dangerous to touch, it can be harmful if ingested. What you do with the brine is at your judgment. Some people pour it in driveways and pathways to deter weeds.
Others flush it down the toilet. This next part will be very difficult if you do and the skin might tear. If you got busy and let the hides dry too much, rewet them with a sponge or washcloth until they are again slightly damp. Breaking the hide softens it without the use of chemicals. Indigenous peoples, tanning rabbit hides, sometimes did this by chewing or pounding the tough skin. Now grab with both hands, working with small sections at a time, and pull in both directions.
Work horizontally, vertically, and diagonally, softening the skin as it turns from black or olive-oil-colored to a bright white. Do the same on all areas of the pelt. Be careful at the bottom because it tears easiest there. You may only have to do this once per hide. Keep doing this until it dries soft. At this point, you may place the hides in a dryer, with no heat or you might damage the hides, and tumble for a few minutes to fluff the fur. If you wish, tack the hide to a board so it will dry flat, but this is often unnecessary unless you want to keep every bit of the ragged edges.
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Purchase mink oil, in paste or liquid form, from leatherworking, craft, or sporting goods stores. It is also available from online retailers. Place all furs skin-side-up on a table to make them easier to handle. Pour a little oil or a dollop of paste into the palm of your hand.
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Rub both hands together. Place palms on the white skin and rub oil thoroughly into the hide. It may not seem like you saturated all surfaces, but a little mink oil goes a long way. Rub the hide between your fingers and skin-against-skin to distribute oils.
Fur and Leather Garments in 18th and 19th Century New England ~ Marge Bruchac
To store hides, place two hides oiled side against oiled side. This helps distribute the milk oil even more. Either lay hides flat in a cardboard box or roll two hides together. Never store in an airtight container. Adding a scented product such as an herbal sachet can keep fur smelling fresh. Not all hides will tan well. Some will turn rancid and some will have hair slip. Some might be buttery soft while others in the same batch fail to break and turn supple. Often the process takes practice and refinement.
Even experienced tanners lose a hide or two in a batch. You can avoid hair slip by using non-iodized salt and remembering to stir the hides at least twice a day. Also, keep your water at room temperature: never above 80 and never below Sometimes the dung was mixed with water in a large vat, and the prepared skins were kneaded in the dung water until they became supple, but not too soft.
The ancient tanner might use his bare feet to knead the skins in the dung water, and the kneading could last two or three hours. It was this combination of urine, animal feces and decaying flesh that made ancient tanneries so odiferous. Children employed as dung gatherers were a common sight in ancient cities. Also common were "piss-pots" located on street corners, where human urine could be collected for use in tanneries or by washerwomen. In some variations of the process, cedar oil, alum or tannin were applied to the skin as a tanning agent.
As the skin was stretched, it would lose moisture and absorb the agent. Leftover leather would be turned into glue. Tanners would place scraps of hides in a vat of water and let them deteriorate for months. The mixture would then be placed over a fire to boil off the water to produce hide glue.
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Variations of these methods are still used by do-it-yourself outdoorsmen to tan hides. The use of brains and the notion that each animal except buffalo has just enough brains for the tanning process have led to the saying "Every animal has just enough brains to preserve its own hide, dead or alive.
Preparing hides begins by curing them with salt. Curing is employed to check putrefaction of the protein substance collagen because of the chance of bacterial infection due to the time lag that might occur from procuring it to processing it. It removes the excess water from the hides and skins where water flows from inside because of difference in osmotic pressure. Thus the moisture content of hides and skins get greatly reduced. In wet-salting, the hides are heavily salted, then pressed into packs for about 30 days. In brine-curing the hides are agitated in a salt water bath for about 16 hours.
Generally speaking, methods employed for curing greatly make the chance of bacterial growth unfavorable.
Thus curing is also done by preserving the hides and skins at a very low temperature. The hides are then soaked in clean water to remove the salt and mainly to bring back the moisture content to a desirable level so that the hide or skin can be treated with chemicals in an aqueous medium.
This process is known as "Soaking" and sometimes a hydrating agent is also employed along with water in a very low percentage for hides and skins which have become very dry. After soaking, the soaked hides and skins are taken for the next operation where these are treated with milk of lime, with or without the addition of sharpening agents like sulfide, cyanides, amines and so forth. The objectives of this operation are mainly to:.
The weakening of hair is dependent on the break down of the disulfide link of the amino acid called cystine, which is the characteristic of the keratin class of protein like hair and wools.